It is Sunday in Choma, Zambia and we have just returned from a three hour service at the local Anglican church. We have a lot to catch you up on and I will leave it to some others in our group to share our many experiences over the past 2 days.
Instead, I want to try to put into words some of the emotions we have experienced over the past week.
Among the 16 of us, we have taken thousands of pictures and shot hours of video that will certainly help convey the multitude of experiences we are having on this trip. As you may imagine, Zambian dial-up internet is no Roadrunner and uploading these pictures and videos to share with you now is beyond impossible. So instead, I am going to try and put into words what we are seeing, smelling, tasting, hearing, and touching with the hope of illustrating just how powerful and prevalent God's presence is in this country.
Seeing
Not a minute has gone by during which we have not seen something inherently beautiful. A glance in one direction shows a mother nursing her child, thankful to provide nutrition for him, a promise that she will not be able to keep as he ages. Turning the other direction, one sees an 80 year-old woman, tired and worn yet proudly displaying signs of resiliency and resolve rarely encountered in the world outside this place. A turn down a dusty road yields two young boys less than 8 years old walking a pair of oxen and shouldering responsibility decades beyond their age. The same dusty road takes one past small huts and exceptionally dry farms with families huddled in the doorway, waving emphatically and smiling cheek-to-cheek at the big purple bus full of white people bumping down the road. The dusty road comes to a clearing and the land explodes in both directions, confined only by the horizons which expand as far as the eye can see and on which are pointed deep blues and purples on one side, juxtaposed by vibrant reds and oranges 180 degrees away as the sun slowly sets. The expansiveness of the horizon brings one to tears and truly exudes the power of God. There are no other words to describe it. As night sets in, the stars emerge, slowly at first and then, in the blink of an eye, there are thousands upon thousands of them spanning one horizon to the other, seemingly touching it, bringing heaven and earth together. Even as I sit here writing, an impala walks across the lawn just outside the doorway of the hotel reception area! In short, the visual stimuli of this country are almost too much to bear at times, and they reflexively open the heart and mind and bring us closer to God
Smelling
This is a country full of unique smells, some fragrant and others not, but all of which enhance the authenticity of the experience. The slums of Misisi offer the widest variety of smells: from cooking porridge to burning charcoal to bodies not washed in days or weeks; the smell of a village latrine is one that will remain with us and that serves as a stark reminder of just how much we have and how much we take for granted. The smells on the bus have amuch more constricted range as our nostrils, lungs, and beings are fulled with the dust of the earth that kicks up behind the bus wheels as we travel to our destinations. You won't hear too much complaining about this and perhaps it's because, filled with dust, we are closer to the earth than ever before. That, and because woodpeckers weren't allowed on this trip.
Tasting
We have been incredibly fortunate to have had only GREAT tasting experiences on this trip. The food provided by the hotels has far exceeded expectations. Each meal consists of an array of soup, potatoes, maize corn, freshly cooked veggies, beef, chicken, pork, and fish. Between Zambian meals, our taste buds are dulled by the likes of powerbars, fruit roll-ups, pretzels, and peanut butter sandwiches, all of which leave them screaming for more native food. The only difficult part, and it is significant, has been returning to such a gracious amount of food only minutes after treating children who are thankful to receive just one bowl of porridge in a day. Our response to these feelings has been to thank god profusely for what has been provided for us, to take only what we need, and to pledge to do something about the problem of food here in African after we return.
Hearing and Touch
Today at church each of us had a true "God Moment" (more like a three-hour "God Marathon"), more profound in its sanctity and whole in its grace than any I've experienced. I will do my best to convey this experience though I will utterly fail at accurately describing it. The church is a concrete building with a tin roof, filled with Zambian men, women, and children, many of whom don blue and white choir uniforms and all of whom seem truly content and at peace to be where they are. We are greeted by music, the sound of voices harmonized and without accompaniment, seeping from the open-air windows and doors and finding its way to our bus. We are seated and the service, though not really a service but more of a concert and praise-session, begins with the same harmonized voices, now full and powerful and well beyond need of an organ, piano, or violin - the music is so pure that accompaniment would denigrate it. Each song is unique in its composition, tonality, and lyric though all are sung with passion and musicality exceeding anything I've ever heard. Interjected between songs are bible verses, prayers, and even a sermon by Pastor Bill Berry! And with each spoken interruption, an almost panicked sense grows among churchgoers to return to worshipping through music. And as soon as we do, the church is lifted and the congregation begins soaring yet again. There are times in the service when it feels as if all the power of heaven is directed on a single point in the church, a wooden cross leaning in the corner, from which it emanates with every bit of God's majesty across every square inch of the dusty concrete floor, shaking the congregation to its core, penetrating the heart, the mind, the bones until waves of chills travel in succession from head to toe, one after another after another.
And just when the senses have seemingly reached maximum capacity, the fifth, touch, is called upon to bring heaven and earth together as one. The pastor calls for the congregation to show signs of peace and reconciliation to one another, set to and the words "Touch me God, Touch me God." This is a command that is answered by such an outpouring of warmth, hospitality, and peace that can only occur under a roof built by God. Hugging, hand shaking, reciprocal smiles, and the words "peace be with you" are undertaken without abandon and are followed by dancing, singing, and improvisation with t he sole purpose of glorifying God and coming together as brothers and sisters in Christ, as one global community, as two nations separated by an ocean, by material wealth, by disease but ultimately two nations brought together by the love of one another and the love of God.
This is what God, life, family, community, charity, and love are all about.
This is where heaven and earth meet. Glory to God,
Will Bynum on behalf of the Zambian Team